F1 model thread

[daz90]

No neither have Tobacco sponsorship on them. To be honest i have never even thought about this before, i just buy F1 cars because i like the paint schemes, unlike my BTCC collection. I have wanted the Stewart for years, like i also want a 96 Jordan, both is down to the paint schemes as much as the driver or car.

As for adding decals, i have never done that myself, not on a diecast model, but i am sure it would be easy enough, i beleive the decals are exactly the same as Airfix kits for example, put the desired decall into warm water and apply with tweezers, easy enough.

I thought about this tobacco thing for a second and just had a look at my collection, not one of them has any tobacco sponsorship on them, the Williams Renaults in particular do look 'naked' without the old Rothmans sponsorship. I feel cheated now

[schmenke]

...As for adding decals, i have never done that myself, not on a diecast model, but i am sure it would be easy enough, i beleive the decals are exactly the same as Airfix kits for example, put the desired decall into warm water and apply with tweezers, easy enough....

Yeah that's what I figured, but some of the decals on a 1/43 model can be fairly small. I've seen some models where the tobacco decal has even been applied to the driver's suit and/or helmet hock:

[codalunga]

I thought about this tobacco thing for a second and just had a look at my collection, not one of them has any tobacco sponsorship on them, the Williams Renaults in particular do look 'naked' without the old Rothmans sponsorship. I feel cheated now

The tobacco issue comes up a lot in the plastic kit modeling world too, but F1 has had several "smoke free" races for quite a while where alternate or deleated markings are run so they may look strange but at least they aren't wrong! I thought Jordan did it best, where they had desirable alternate schemes like Bitten N Hisses and Buzzin' Hornets.

One of the more interesting aftermarket sheets I came across was to make the Monaco "Star Wars" Red Bull car out of the 1/18 scale diecast.

[wmcot]

Yeah that's what I figured, but some of the decals on a 1/43 model can be fairly small. I've seen some models where the tobacco decal has even been applied to the driver's suit and/or helmet hock:

I've converted a few and it helps to have small tweezers, a fine pointed paint brush (to maneuver the decal around) and a magnifier lamp. It's not too tough once you get the hang of it. The difficult models are those that need to have logos removed first like the Marlboro "piano keys" or Ferrari white engine covers, etc. If you mess that up, you could be out $250.00 on a BBR model.

[daz90]

Added, well an updated few to my list.

1992. Williams Renault FW 15 C, Damon Hill (Onyx)
1996. Jordan Puegoet 196, Martin Brundle (Minichamps)

[PSfan]

To do the heads, one has to buy other models of him and do head swaps, which has left me with loads of headless models! Recently I outbid other bidders on ebay for the rare Michael Schumacher collection Minichamp Go-Karts so they could be converted into Ants various junior and senior championship karts.

Wow, I imagine you'll will be decapitating alot of Micheal Schumachers then... just curious what you do with the heads of the other drivers once your done with them... :

[ioan]

I've just finished my first ever model of an F1 car, the Ferrari F1-2000 (1/20) from Tamiya.
The decals are by far the most challenging thing on these models.

I'm thinking about applying clear lack on it, but not sure about the result, could someone tell me if it's worth?

Now I'll take on the next one, Auto Union Type D (1/32 Revell), looks like a very difficult one to me.

next on the list

[Dazz9908]

I've just finished my first ever model of an F1 car, the Ferrari F1-2000 (1/20) from Tamiya.
The decals are by far the most challenging thing on these models.

I'm thinking about applying clear lack on it, but not sure about the result, could someone tell me if it's worth?

Now I'll take on the next one, Auto Union Type D (1/32 Revell), looks like a very difficult one to me.

next on the list

A Clear coat looks good but If you are using Tamiya Gloss Clear, don't use it over the Decals, apply it first, before the decals, if you do it over the top of the decals they will crack up in time (spider web look- you 'll cry).
I recommend Microscale -Micro Gloss, It's safe to paint over the decals and non yellows. I've had models for over 10yrs and look as good as the day I finish them.
I did one before In Tamiya Gloss Clear and the decals cracked and yellowed in time as described above. I since re-made this model.

[ioan]

A Clear coat looks good but If you are using Tamiya Gloss Clear, don't use it over the Decals, apply it first, before the decals, if you do it over the top of the decals they will crack up in time (spider web look- you 'll cry).
I recommend Microscale -Micro Gloss, It's safe to paint over the decals and non yellows. I've had models for over 10yrs and look as good as the day I finish them.
I did one before In Tamiya Gloss Clear and the decals cracked and yellowed in time as described above. I since re-made this model.

Thanks for the advice! It's good to have first hand info about this kind of things.

I'm actually thinking to use an universal water based acrylic clear lack I use for all kind of other things.

[daz90]

I recommend Microscale -Micro Gloss, It's safe to paint over the decals and non yellows. I've had models for over 10yrs and look as good as the day I finish them.

Could i ask where you might buy those from? i am on the look out for these items myself, but my local Model shop (Grantham) dont stock them, and a half hearted search on eBay didn't come up trumps either.

Have you ever heard of Micro - Sol and Micro - Set these are what have been recomended to me, and these are the two things i am on the look out for.