Hello from Antony Warmbold

[BDA Cosworth]

nice to have someone on here like yourself...

when you started rallying at top level and you saw that the results weren't there and that your future was not in an official team due to lack of skills, what kept you going and paying more ? was it the fact that you still had a small hope and didn't want to leave it? or you had too much fun and you were just spending the money like on a hobby ?

OMG!!!!! Really?

[stefanvv]

[Franky]

OMG!!!!! Really?

Do you have a problem with N.O.T? Don't really see the point of dragging one post up from 2011 ...

[N.O.T]

OMG!!!!! Really?

It is a valid question... i prefer questions from ass licking, they taste better...

[Rallyper]

I was not able to comment in Your blog, so I will do it here, and at the same time say that everyone that hasnt should read Mr Warmbolds blog!

Interesting read: In the classic case of understeer on entry, and oversteer on exit, 9 times out of 10 it is the driver him self that is creating his own difficulties. This is by going too fast and too tight on the entry. The inside corner is sharper than the outside one, and too fast is always too fast. This will create understeer. The oversteer comes from the inputs the driver does to correct the understeer. Slowing down the front, making a big weight transfer towards the front, while wanting the front of the car to change direction. As soon as the front starts changing direction, the rear will continue in the same direction, because of the lack of grip created by the exessive speed/weight transfer, and this will result in oversteer.
The remedy would be to be earlier on the brakes, turn in later with a wider line, and be earlier on the throttle, so you get on the throttle side on the diff. This You should do before You start adjusting things on Your car, because You should adjust it after when You are doing it right, not compensating for problems You make Your self

Thanks for the blog, a very good read!

Are you talking 4WD, 2RWD or 2FWD, with or without handbrake. So many ways correction could be done. A driver also has a pedal to the right... Pedal to the metal often makes good corrections.

[COD]

I was not able to comment in Your blog, so I will do it here, and at the same time say that everyone that hasnt should read Mr Warmbolds blog!

Interesting read: In the classic case of understeer on entry, and oversteer on exit, 9 times out of 10 it is the driver him self that is creating his own difficulties. This is by going too fast and too tight on the entry. The inside corner is sharper than the outside one, and too fast is always too fast. This will create understeer. The oversteer comes from the inputs the driver does to correct the understeer. Slowing down the front, making a big weight transfer towards the front, while wanting the front of the car to change direction. As soon as the front starts changing direction, the rear will continue in the same direction, because of the lack of grip created by the exessive speed/weight transfer, and this will result in oversteer.
The remedy would be to be earlier on the brakes, turn in later with a wider line, and be earlier on the throttle, so you get on the throttle side on the diff. This You should do before You start adjusting things on Your car, because You should adjust it after when You are doing it right, not compensating for problems You make Your self

Thanks for the blog, a very good read!

Turn in later with wider line, is theoretically very good idea.
Try doing that on gravel, when all the loose gravel is on the outside of the corner, and you will either go off or loose a lot of time with wheelspin.
On tarmac it could work better, unless someone before you has cut and brought gravel and dirt to the outside, then the result is the same as on gravel.

[Lundefaret]

Turn in later with wider line, is theoretically very good idea.
Try doing that on gravel, when all the loose gravel is on the outside of the corner, and you will either go off or loose a lot of time with wheelspin.
On tarmac it could work better, unless someone before you has cut and brought gravel and dirt to the outside, then the result is the same as on gravel.

It is actually the complete opposite. It has to do with how much or little sideways forces You want acting at Your cars/tires at certain points of a turn.
The Loeb-remedy for tarmac stages with dirt/low friction on the mid apex is to go in deeper, make more of the directional change earlier, and then straighten the line over the low friction area so to start acceleration earlier. This is when acceleration is wanted, and huge cuts prohibited.
The same goes for gravel and snow, just watch Ogier, Loeb, Mäkkinen, Mikkelsen (on the first 1,5 days of this years Rally Sweden were he drove brilliantly), and so on.

My point was that Warmbolds blogg entry was very interesting, but that one needs to be certain what is the driver, and what is the car.
If You have an older rallycar with no adjustments, You have to adjust your self to the car, and this ability is a lot more worth than being able to adjust the car to one self.
This is because You can run the car closer to the theoretically perfect setting, and because of tire wear, changes in grip levels etc, the stage will vary in many parameters.

Going up trough gokarts etc, whit a focus on making the kart perfect for the driver, is not how to become the next Loeb or Ogier or Mäkinen or Röhrl.

[tomhlord]

Hi Anthony, I would love to hear your thoughts about this video, "Behind the Scenes at M-Sport" (a nice '2011' turbo at 12:32). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYbMk50awO0

[Antony Warmbold]

Hi Anthony, I would love to hear your thoughts about this video, "Behind the Scenes at M-Sport" (a nice '2011' turbo at 12:32). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYbMk50awO0

Hi Tom, I watched it with interest. They speak about rebuilds etc. Nothing special for me there. I would have liked more info from the gearbox man... I noted from the damper man that the smaller spring is indeed a helper spring and not a tender. Therefore it seems M-Sport is still using a linear spring suspension system. From 10:32 the ride height adjuster was interesting. He says the driver resets it inside the car..."obviously when he is stopped (with a smile)..." The 2004 Focus had a ride height adjuster which was driven by a pump and controlled by buttons on the steering wheel. I understand that nowadays it's supposed to be manual so I wonder how you reset it from inside the car (straight forward question). Maybe they handle a manual hydraulic pump somehow. The turbo part was interesting as well. 155.000rpm, 1.000°c, 70L/sec, 1.000km before rebuild, 2.000km on test car...

All in all a cool video!

[AMSS]

Hi Tom, I watched it with interest. They speak about rebuilds etc. Nothing special for me there. I would have liked more info from the gearbox man... I noted from the damper man that the smaller spring is indeed a helper spring and not a tender. Therefore it seems M-Sport is still using a linear spring suspension system. From 10:32 the ride height adjuster was interesting. He says the driver resets it inside the car..."obviously when he is stopped (with a smile)..." The 2004 Focus had a ride height adjuster which was driven by a pump and controlled by buttons on the steering wheel. I understand that nowadays it's supposed to be manual so I wonder how you reset it from inside the car (straight forward question). Maybe they handle a manual hydraulic pump somehow. The turbo part was interesting as well. 155.000rpm, 1.000°c, 70L/sec, 1.000km before rebuild, 2.000km on test car...

All in all a cool video!

Attached(hopefully) some pictures, in the picture from the trunk you can see the adjuster unit. It's the black tube by witch turning you hydraulically adjust the ride height. Basically you just turn a piston that increases or decreases the spring bottom. Rules prohibit adjusting when driving so that's why the adjuster is situated in the trunk and in the engine compartment on the fiestas.